Lewes, East Sussex: Castle, Priory, Thomas Paine & Things to Do

Lewes is the county town of East Sussex, built on a spur of the South Downs above the River Ouse, eight miles north-east of Brighton. Its High Street runs along the ridge past Georgian fronts and timber-framed houses, with narrow lanes called twittens dropping steeply on either side.

Why Lewes Is Special

Lewes is one of the most characterful small towns in England, with a Norman castle at its heart, independent shops and antiques dealers, its own brewery and views out to the Downs from almost every street.

It has a strong sense of its own history, celebrated every year at its famous Bonfire night.

The History of Lewes

After the Norman Conquest, William the Conqueror rewarded his follower William de Warenne with land along the Ouse valley. De Warenne built Lewes Castle within the walls of the Saxon town, and his wife Gundreda founded the Priory of St Pancras, a Cluniac monastery, in about 1081.

In 1264 the Battle of Lewes was fought on the Downs above the town, when the barons led by Simon de Montfort defeated King Henry III. The ruins of the Priory, much of it destroyed after the Dissolution, can still be explored in Southover.

Anne of Cleves House, a 16th-century timber-framed Wealden hall house, was part of the settlement Anne received from Henry VIII when their marriage was annulled, though she never lived there. Bull House on the High Street was the home of Thomas Paine, who lived in Lewes in the years before he left for America.

Today Lewes is known for the Lewes Bonfire celebrations each November, with processions by the town's bonfire societies, and for the Glyndebourne opera festival nearby.

Things to Do in Lewes

Climb Lewes Castle for one of the best views in Sussex, then walk the High Street and the steep twittens, such as Keere Street. Visit Anne of Cleves House and the ruins of Lewes Priory in Southover.

Browse the town's antiques shops and markets, and walk out along the river or up onto the Downs above the town.

Gardens, Countryside & Antiques near Lewes

The South Downs National Park surrounds the town; Alfriston is a short drive south-east (see our guide to Alfriston), and Sheffield Park and Garden is a few miles north.

Brighton and Hove are close, with Abode, HomeSense Brighton and Zoe Rourke Interiors, and the Ardingly International Antiques & Collectors Fair is held regularly nearby.

Lewes Through the Seasons

Spring and summer are lovely for walks along the river and the Downs, and summer brings the Glyndebourne season. On 5 November the town is transformed by the Bonfire. Winter is cosy, with old pubs and the Downs white with frost.

Getting to Lewes

Lewes station is on the lines from London Victoria, Brighton and Eastbourne, a few minutes' walk from the High Street. Parking in the town is limited.

Lewes: Questions & Answers

What happened at the Battle of Lewes?

In 1264 the barons led by Simon de Montfort defeated King Henry III on the Downs above the town.

Did Anne of Cleves live in Lewes?

No. Anne of Cleves House was part of her settlement from Henry VIII after their marriage was annulled, but she never lived there.

Our Advice

Our advice: Arrive by train, climb the castle first, then wander the twittens and the antiques shops, and finish with a walk out onto the Downs.