Arundel, West Sussex: Castle, Cathedral, History & Things to Do

Arundel climbs a steep hillside above the River Arun, crowned by a great castle and the soaring Gothic spire of its cathedral. Seen from the water meadows below, it looks almost too perfect to be real, and it is one of the most rewarding small towns in Sussex to explore.

Why Arundel Is Special

Arundel is a much-conserved market town with more listed buildings than anywhere in West Sussex except Chichester. Its steep High Street and side streets are full of independent shops, antiques and interiors, cafés and old pubs.

And it sits right on the edge of the South Downs, with river walks, wetland birds and downland views a few minutes from the town centre.

The History of Arundel

The castle was established by Roger de Montgomery, who began work in around 1067, soon after the Norman Conquest. Since the 11th century it has been the seat of the Earls of Arundel and the Dukes of Norfolk, and the same family still lives there today.

Its early centuries were turbulent. In 1101–02 Henry I besieged the castle after its holder, Robert of Bellême, rebelled, and in 1139, during the Anarchy, Queen Adeliza and her husband William d'Aubigny hosted the Empress Matilda there. The castle passed through the d'Aubigny and FitzAlan families until Lady Mary FitzAlan married the 4th Duke of Norfolk in 1555, and it has descended through the Howards ever since.

During the Civil War, in 1643, the castle was besieged and its 800 Royalist defenders surrendered after 18 days. Parliament later ordered it slighted, and much of what we see today is the result of restoration, first by the 11th Duke from 1787 and then by the 15th Duke between 1875 and 1905, after Queen Victoria and Prince Albert spent three days here in 1846.

The town grew up as a river port and an important crossing; Arundel was the lowest road bridge over the Arun until the Littlehampton swing bridge opened in 1908. Its Roman Catholic cathedral, dedicated to Our Lady and St Philip Howard, was built in the Victorian era by the 15th Duke and gives the skyline its unmistakable French Gothic profile. The Fitzalan Chapel, the family's burial place, lies within the castle grounds.

The castle has many more stories. On 14 October 1651 Captain Morley, holding the castle for Parliament, almost captured the fugitive Charles II while out hunting. Cricket has been played on the castle ground since 1895, and the castle has doubled for Windsor Castle on screen, in the Doctor Who serial Silver Nemesis (1988) and in the film The Madness of King George (1994).

Things to Do in Arundel

Arundel Castle and its gardens open to visitors from spring to autumn (check dates). Inside are grand rooms, the Barons' Hall and the library, and outside is the Collector Earl's Garden, opened in 2008 by the then Prince of Wales, a playful, formal garden that is one of the most original in the South.

Visit the cathedral at the top of the town, then wander down the High Street and Tarrant Street for antiques and homeware, with tea rooms and cafés to stop in along the way. French Loft, with French antiques and decorative pieces, has a shop here. Arundel Museum, by the river, tells the town's story. Markets and fairs are held in the town through the year; check the town council's website for dates.

Just north of the castle lies Arundel Park, an old deer park on the chalk of the Downs, open to walkers. At its foot is Swanbourne Lake, an ancient artificial lake, where you can stroll the lakeside path, feed the ducks or hire a rowing boat in summer. The park is a Site of Special Scientific Interest, described by Natural England as one of the most important sites in the country for invertebrates, and on the hill above the lake stands Hiorne's Tower, a folly built for the 11th Duke by Francis Hiorne.

Gardens, Countryside & Antiques near Arundel

Just north of the town, beside Swanbourne Lake, is WWT Arundel Wetland Centre, run by the Wildfowl & Wetlands Trust, a lovely place to see ducks, geese, swans and wild wetland birds from boardwalks and hides. The nearest RSPB reserve is RSPB Pulborough Brooks, about eight miles north. Parham House and Gardens near Pulborough and West Dean Gardens near Chichester are two of the finest gardens in Sussex,.

Walk out along the river or up onto the Downs; our South Downs guide has more. Chichester, with Winter's Moon and Neptune Chichester, is a short drive away.

Arundel Through the Seasons

Spring is the time for the castle gardens, when the tulips are out. Summer brings the river walks and boat trips on the Arun. In autumn the wetland centre fills with migrating birds, and in winter the town is cosy and quiet, ideal for antiques hunting.

Getting to Arundel

Arundel station is on the Arun Valley line from London Victoria, about ten minutes' walk from the town centre across the river.

Arundel: Questions & Answers

Who lives in Arundel Castle?

Arundel Castle has been the seat of the Earls of Arundel and the Dukes of Norfolk since the 11th century, and the family still lives there.

When is Arundel Castle open?

The castle and gardens open to visitors from spring to autumn. Dates and times change each year, so check the castle's website before you go.

Our Advice

Our advice: Visit the castle on a weekday in spring or early summer, walk the river path out to the wetlands, and save time for the shops on the High Street and Tarrant Street.